Bedori (3727m) is the highest peak in Forward Kahuta/Haveli region of Azad Kashmir. It faces the massive Pir Panjal range range in the Indian Occupied Kashmir. As we were preparing for our major summer expedition, we needed a trek to warm-up. At first, we decided to go for Gabin Jaba and Saidgai/Daral lakes in Lower Swat. However, for some reasons we had to drop that plan and leave that trek for some other year. Eventually, we got settled with Bedori peak which was another long-pending place in my to-dos.
I first came to know about Bedori peak from a picture posted by Muzaffar Bukari on Flickr somewhere back in 2009. I contacted Muzaffar and got details of the trek. We met and decided to go for it together in the June 2009. However somehow I couldn’t join the group and missed the opportunity to see this corner of Kashmir. The name Bedori remained struck in my mind since then. And it took 7 long years before I finally managed to be here 🙂
Road to Forward Kahuta takes 7-8 hours from Islamabad. Public transports take Rawalkot – Abbaspur route however as we were on our jeep, we preferred Bagh – Lasdana route where road is in much better shape. From Forward Kahuta, we reached the village Soli which is further 30 minutes away and where we were to stay at Muzaffar’s relatives’ home. We reached and bugged them around mid-night. Being too-tired from the long and rough journey, soon were in beds.
Next morning, we hired a jeep for village Barachar which is one of the starting points of Bedori trek. There are apparently many routes to reach Bedori. This one from Barachar is very steep in the start and so I will personally not recommend it. A better route is to take Kukarsina – Nilsar – Keran route which is less hectic. From Barachar, we gained altitude of around 800m and reached the summer settlement of Kuthnar in around 5 hours. The area contains lush green meadows and in terms of greenery, one of the most beautiful areas we have been to. Maybe it had to do something with the monsoon season that greenery was on its peak but we were greeted with meadows after meadows that made our walk a bit pleasant. Soon weather changed its colors abruptly and thick clouds covered the whole area to the extent that we were soon unable to see beyond few meters. With the help of locals, we managed to reach the small village mosque and decided to spend night in the comfort instead of pitching our tents. Soon some locals arrived and we have had good conversation. That resulted in them offering us the local dinner of saag, makai ki roti and fresh butter which was delicious, pure and refreshing as it is always in the mountains 🙂
Next morning, we woke up at Fajir, however to our disappointment, the area was still under heavy clouds. Visibility was too low and there was risk of rain too. With heavy heart, we decided not to pursue Bedori mission and to descend back towards Soli instead. However, as one of our purposes was to warm-up for the upcoming expedition, we decided to ascend the 3300m high Keran top at least to get some acclimatization. We took the Keran Top – Nilsar – Kukarsina route on our way back and reached Nakra village that took around 6 hours. From there we managed to get jeep for Soli from where we returned to Islamabad on our jeep after around 8 hours.
If someone wants to do this trek, I will recommend taking the Soli-Kukarsina-Nilsar route. From Nilsar where there is a small water pond, one can take the direct path to Kuthnar and can stay there or further near Ziarat. In total this will demand 6-8 hours of trekking. One should spare the whole next day for reaching Bedori and returning back to spend night at the same place. At Bedori top, there are army posts so one must have the original CNIC along. From the top of Bedori peak, one can have amazing panorama views of the area including towns of Indian Occupied Kashmir. Best time to visit the area is June to August.